This additional lower rail on the rear section is about the same height above the water as a typical floating dock, presenting a risk of interference with the boat moving up and down in wave action. (Boats move considerably more up/down than the floating dock finger from wave action.)
Two precautionary items were added. First a round buoy fender is hung to be just below the rail--almost touching the water. This prevents the rail from contacting the dock structure.
In addition, using 3" PVC Sch 40 pipe, I made "L" shaped "bridge" fenders or "PVC Boat Guards" to prevent the dock edge surface from entering the space between the lower rub rail and the hull. These "bridge" fenders or PVC Boat Guards can also be helpful when docking as they prevent contact with the dock surface and slide easily as the boat enters the slip.
Many claim that you can rely on the padding on the dock edge to protect the hull, but my experience is that this padding is often missing, misplaced, or has protruding staples or nails that can damage a hull. Fenders and PVC Boat Guards can "get in the way" if you enter the slip with the front of the hull sliding against the dock edge, but I believe that even in windy conditions, you should be able to get the boat far enough into the slip, clear of the dock edge, so that if there is contact, it is against a fender or PVC Boat Guard.
As a final extra precaution, I add a fender at the front, just ahead of where the hull tapers, to protect the hull on initial entry--just in case. So during entry, there are a total of 6 cylindrical fenders, 2 round fenders and 2 PVC Boat Guards. Resting in the slip, I lift the two front fenders as they are not needed once the bow is secured by lines.
Grand Day Out's hull has no scratches in 36 years of operation. I hope to maintain that record with an abundance of caution and care.
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